On the Care and Keeping of Pet Rats

Note: this article is a reprint of an article I wrote in March 2009 on another website. I am the original author of all text and images contained herein.

People seem to come naturally programmed to hate rats and view them as nothing more than horrific pests. We're taught that they're responsible for disease, such as the Black Plague, though that isn't entirely accurate. We're taught that they're aggressive and grow to the size of cats, though that isn't really true either, no matter what your neighbor's cousin's friend says. We're taught they're all brown. We're rarely taught that they make excellent pets, are extremely intelligent, are incredibly people-oriented, and come in a rainbow of colors and patterns-- yet all these things are true. So what is it that those of us who keep rats as pets know that you don't? If you keep reading, you'll find out.

I have been a lifelong animal lover, but as a child I was only ever really exposed to the more common animals kept as pets-- dogs, cats, and the occasional hamster. Like most, I was taught that rats were dirty, scary creatures, worthy of little more than extermination. I always had a bit of trouble with this line of thinking, because while "dirty" was understandable(though incorrect), I didn't find them especially "scary" and have never believed that any animal deserves to die simply for existing. I also found it interesting that rats were highly valued in lab settings(even if treated poorly), but dismissed elsewhere as useless pests. And so for some time it never occurred to me that people actually kept rats as pets, even though it's a practice that dates back to the 1800's; they were either lab animals or something you might see rummaging in a dumpster for a meal. I did periodically encounter them in the barn, where to be perfectly honest I viewed them as an annoyance. However, this was because they loved to get in to bags of grain and dig tunnels around the edges of the stalls. I'd chase them off when I saw them, but it never crossed my mind to bring them to any harm.

Then one day I made a curious discovery-- people really DID keep rats as pets. Further, those people were vehement that these pesky, dirty critters were pretty much the exact opposite of what we've all been taught to believe since we were children. Further, they came in all sorts of different colors and body types and could even be shown, just like dogs and cats are. They could be taught tricks. They could be taught to learn their names. They could be taught to ride around on your shoulder and engage in interactive behaviors. That was enough to sell me, so I began researching the in's and out's of keeping pet rats, and once I felt confident that I had a handle on the basics, I took the plunge and went in search of the perfect first rat.

As a novice rat owner, I made a lot of mistakes. I purchased my first rat on somewhat of a whim from a pet store(the bad points here being "on a whim" and "from a pet store"). At the time, I was out shopping for supplies for my cats and horses and just happened to see the rats on display in their cage. I didn't find any of them particularly striking-- after seeing all the different patterns and colors a rat could be found in, I'd convinced myself I wanted the flashiest thing I could find. But what I ended up with was anything but. I came home that day with a very nondescript charcoal grey(actually a poorly colored black) juvenile male with white feet and a white spot on his chest. The other cardinal sin involved here was getting only one. Rats are communal animals with a strong need to be with others of their own kind, so I did a Bad Thing in bringing this one home alone. But, that situation was shortly rectified.

The other Big Mistake I'd made was buying a cage that was simply not suitable for a rat, as it was entirely too small. My poor lone rat had to compete with his own food dish for a spot to get comfortable. So, in need of a proper cage, I set out to yet another pet store where I was able to locate one, along with a young rat friend for my single boy at home. These 2 ended up being quite the pair, and I was extremely fortunate in that these rats, both purchased in pet stores, turned out to be stellar examples of what a pet rat should be. This is not always the case when buying rats from unknown origins, such as those sold in pet stores, but that's a topic I'll cover in greater detail further down the page. These 2 rats ended up living on a bookshelf in my bedroom with free access in and out of their cage as they pleased. In hindsight, this was really not the best idea, but I had figured they'd be safe up there on that shelf, with no way down, and while they were safe, my original little charcoal pal did indeed find a way down. I awoke very early one morning to find him curled up in bed next to me. Personally, I found it very cute and sweet, but my fear was that further episodes of this might result in him getting squished underneath me, so I nixed their free access in and out of their cage, unless I was around(and awake) to supervise.

As time went on, my nondescript charcoal juvenile male grew in to a nondescript charcoal adult of average size. Having been handled extensively, he'd become very used to be toted around, usually perched up on my shoulder. He displayed the calm, even, patient temperament that is typically expected of domesticated rats. He was curious and friendly when it came to people, and freely handed out kisses, which some folks found a little revolting, but it was a genuine sign of affection. He became somewhat of an ambassador for his species, as I frequently took him out with me when I'd go to the pet store for supplies or food, and we attracted a good deal of attention because people were not used to seeing such a thing. People were often extremely curious, having never seen a rat so up close, and even those who were fearful of them overall usually wanted to give mine a little pet(they were amazed at how soft and clean he was) and sometimes they'd even ask to hold him. Only once was I ever threatened, with physical harm toward my rat, in a pet store by a person who was fearful-- and I must say, please don't ever do this to someone. It's fine to be afraid, but actually threatening to harm another person's pet, who is doing nothing to threaten you, is a terrible way to treat someone. Don't let your fears override your common sense.

And so the interest only continued to grow from there, and over the years I acquired new and different rats, learned lots and lots, even went to a handful of shows, where some of my rats did quite well. I started my own small breeding program that had it's ups and downs but was overall a positive experience. Eventually I put that program to rest, after breeding only a handful of litters, because frankly, it's a lot of work, and there are already plenty of rats in the world in need of loving homes without me adding to the count. Today, I keep rats solely as pets and companions and as of this writing currently have 7 in residence. In my breeding days it wasn't unusual to have 60+(and for some breeders, that number can be significantly higher), but it can get difficult to manage that many at once and one of the results can be that none of them get the sort of quality interaction time they deserve.

If I've gotten your attention and you're interested in learning more about keeping rats as pets, keep reading down this page for lots of useful information.

Never dive in to owning a new pet without knowing at least the basic requirements for care. And once you know those basic requirements, look for every way possible to build on them and and learn how to make that pet thrive, not just survive.

The first thing you're going to need is a cage. Your cage needs to allow adequate space for your rats(that's right, plural) to move around easily, sleep comfortably, have easy access to food and water, and space to be rambunctious(especially if you get youngsters). The general rule that I learned was 2 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet(they love to climb) of space per rat, meaning for just 2 rats, you'd need a mighty large cage. This is not always feasible, and, strictly in my opinion, not always necessary. It's fairly easy to compensate for smaller cage space by making sure to allow your rats sufficient time outside their cage every day--a couple of hours in the evening is usually suitable. It's very important to make sure that any area outside of the cage that you allow your rat in to is safe, meaning, free of things like electrical cords(rats love to chew), any hazardous items, and any other pets you may have, particularly those with prey drive. Never leave your rats unsupervised when loose outside their cage.

When purchasing a cage, make sure the spacing between the wires is only about 1/2 an inch or so. Rats can be marvelous escape artists when they feel like it, and can squeeze through much smaller spaces than you might think. Cage floors should always be solid, either plastic or metal, and not wire to avoid getting toes caught(which will cause your rat to shriek like you've never heard an animal to shriek before... and can also cause injury). Never keep rats in fish tanks or aquariums(even if your local pet store or the kid down the street does). Rats have sensitive respiratory systems that can be seriously(fatally) affected by being kept in containers with solid sides. Wire cages allow for the free flow of air, which is essential for the health of your rat.

The next thing you'll need is some type of bedding to put in the bottom of your cage. Before you run out to your nearest pet store, burn this in to your brain: NEVER, EVER USE PINE OR CEDAR BASED BEDDINGS FOR RATS. The oils in these woods are toxic to rats, despite the fact that bedding made from them is frequently marketed as bedding for rats. Your rats could become seriously ill or even die if forced to live on these beddings. If you want to use a wood-based bedding, use aspen. Aspen is completely safe, very absorbent, and very inexpensive. Aspen is also usually not dusty, though this can vary by brand. The best aspen I've found is made by Kaytee. Another safe, popular bedding is CareFresh, though I was never personally very fond of it as I found it to be quite dusty(and rather expensive). A third to consider is Yesterday's News, which is marketed as both a litter for cats and bedding for small animals. This comes in the form of recycled paper pellets and is pretty effective, though I found that some of my rats seemed to dislike the feel of walking on it. Tip: if you try Yesterday's News, buy it as packaged for cat litter rather than as packaged for small animal bedding. It is significantly cheaper this way, but you're still getting the same thing. Additionally, be sure to freeze all bedding, regardless of the type you choose, for 24 hours before use. This will kill any bugs living in it. It's extremely common for rats to pick up lice(species-specific, they will not transfer from the rats to you) from contaminated bedding, and virtually all bedding is contaminated to some extent. Lice are pretty easy to treat if your rat ends up with them, but it's even easier to avoid by freezing your bedding. Less common, but far worse, are mites that can be picked up from bedding. Mites are extremely difficult to kill, multiply at an alarming pace, and will move out of cages to live(and breed) in places like your carpet and your clothing. They deliver a somewhat painful bite(that will subsequently itch like mad) and once acquired are extraordinarily difficult to get rid of-- it took me a good 6 months, and I've heard from others that it took them even longer. Your house can become infested with them in a matter of days, and they will attach themselves to any warm body they can find, including yours. For the sake of your sanity, freeze your bedding before use.

Next you'll need a bowl for food and a bottle for water. For bowls, I use both the type that mount to the side of the cage and the heavy ceramic sort that can sit on the cage floor. Always set loose bowls on the lowest level possible of the cage(if you've purchased a multi-level cage, which rats love), because rats tend to like to redecorate, often, and bowls can be knocked from higher levels and fall on animals below, potentially causing injury. Don't bother with lightweight plastic loose bowls, your rats will knock them over in no time and spill out food everywhere. Ceramic bowls work best because they are of sufficient weight that they typically cannot be spilled over. Bowls that mount to the sides of the cage are also very secure, but only use these for rats who are capable of climbing up to them. Elderly rats, injured rats, or rats otherwise not capable of climbing need bowls at ground level.

Bottles should be of the sort that mount to the outside of the cage, because otherwise you might find yourself replacing your bottles on a regular basis, because as previously mentioned, rats like to chew. And chew they will, on pretty much anything that comes their way, which is why it's important to provide them with something to chew on. There are lots of products made just for this purpose, from wooden sticks to toys to treats that have to be "worked for". But, one of the best things I've found is Greenies-- yes, the dog treats. Rats love these and they are completely safe to use. You can also experiment with other types of chews made for dogs, but use extreme caution(read: avoid) when it comes to rawhide. Try things like edible NylaBones instead.

Finally, you might consider tricking out your cage with things like hammocks and igloos. Rats love a comfortable place to sleep and take to hammocks very quickly. Igloos are a great way to provide your rats with a little privacy and a sense of security in having a bit of a hiding place. I also like to get mine Roll-A-Nests, that they can sleep in and modify to their heart's content. All of these items will need to be replaced at some point; the lifespan of each item tends to be totally dependent on the individual rat. I've had hammocks that lasted for months and months, typically used by adult males who are less likely to be overly destructive. Then I've also had hammocks that have lasted about a week(though this is not typical), used by younger females whose sole purpose in life is to cause as much trouble as possible. You should also consider providing yours rats with some toys, which is pretty much anything they can engage with and get some stimulation out of. Set up your rat's habitat in a manner that is least likely to create boredom-- a bored rat can be a problematic rat. Rats have fairly active minds and are generally keen on interaction that involves physical and mental stimulation. Bored rats and rats without any stimulus can become destructive, and in some cases, neurotic and aggressive. Don't neglect your rat's mind.

You might recall I said plural when it came to getting your new pets. As mentioned in the previous section, rats are highly social, communal animals that, with only a handful of exceptions, need to be kept with their own kind. Solitary rats may become nervous, aggressive, or even depressed. Some even recommend keeping a minimum of 3 rats together, in the event something unfortunate should happen to one of them. That way, there will still be a pair remaining. When selecting pairs/trios, select those that are the same sex and in the same age range(a set of littermates from a breeder is a great resource for this). Unless you are intending to breed your rats(which at this point, you shouldn't even be considering), never keep males and females together. Rats can have extremely large litters(up to 20 in some cases, though 12 is more average; my largest ever was 14) and have a very short gestation period of only 3 weeks, at which point, the female can be bred again.

As far as choosing which sex of rat to keep, I don't feel it matters a whole lot either way. Males, as adults, tend to be more laid back and inclined to simply sleep in your lap, whereas adult females tend to be more active and interested in getting in to everything possible, with little inclination to ever sit still. Males are generally larger than females, substantially so in some cases. Aggression is rare in either sex, but when it turns up it tends to be seen more in males than females-- though I've encountered some fairly aggressive females in the past. The single most thing that tends to weird people out about males is their external genitalia-- the testicles of the male rat are typically large and prominent. Despite this, male rats generally have very low sex drives unless continuously exposed to females in estrous.

This section covers assorted information that you need to know about keeping rats as pets.

Rats from pet stores
There is a lot of controversy surrounding getting any pet from a pet store, and rats are no exception. On a general level, I'm fairly opposed to it, despite having done it myself. If you get a rat in a pet store, either because it's your only option or because it's simply what you choose to do, know this: rats that are sold in large chain stores like Petsmart and PetCo are "mill-bred"(think "puppy mill"). They are produced in mass quantities, typically as feeder animals, and a certain portion of them are deemed "pet" types and shipped off to stores to be sold. These rats are bred without regard to health or temperament, often in substandard environments. Many arrive to stores in poor health, or covered in lice, or pregnant, or sometimes deceased. It's also entirely possible to buy a perfectly healthy rat from a pet store-- I certainly have. In the end, it's a bit of a gamble as to what you're going get-- that cute youngster who started out happy and friendly could grow up in to an unholy terror that's nearly unmanageable. That one that looked perfectly healthy the day you bought it could turn around and have a chronic, lifelong condition that lowers his quality of life(have one of those, too). That little female that you were certain was way too young to be bred could pop out a litter 2 weeks after you take her home(been there, done that... twice). And along with all the potential surprises, you're also paying in to a machine that will continue on doing the very same thing-- churning out living things, with little to no regard for their overall welfare.

Rats from breeders
While this sounds like an ideal alternative to a pet store rat, it's not always the case. if you plan to go to a breeder for a pet rat, research your breeder first. Do they keep breeding records and know the sire(father) & dam(mother) of each litter? Do they keep health records of all rats used in their breeding program, and if asked, will they share those records with you, good points and bad? If breeding "high white" rats, do they record all instances of occurrences of megacolon and remove all rats that carry this disease from their program? Do they breed multiple litters year after year or just a handful here and there(the latter is preferable)? Will they allow you in to their rattery to inspect their animals firsthand-- if not, this is not necessarily something to hold against them. Some people are highly protective of their ratteries, and with good reason-- to prevent the spread of disease(such as SDA, which while not fatal itself, can lead to fatal conditions in rats at a rapid rate). Some ratteries that normally do not allow visitors may be more inclined to allow you in if you do not currently own rats. If you encounter such a rattery, and they extend you an invitation, DO NOT visit or handle any other rats from any other sources before your visit. Do a little "homework" on any breeders that catch your interest-- join internet groups or message boards, ask around with other experienced owners and breeders. There are a lot of really great ratteries out there... there are also some pretty lousy ones.

Additionally, if you decide to buy from a breeder, be prepared to possibly have to wait to get your new pets. A better breeder will not breed a litter until he/she has at least a few homes lined up for the babies. After the litter is born, expect to wait another 3-4 weeks before you'll be able to bring your new rats home.

Feeding your rat
Most commercially available feeds for rats are nutritionally unsound and not suitable. They typically contain filler material such as small seeds and alfalfa, neither of which rats will eat, and frequently contain peanuts, which can cause allergic skin reactions in many rats. A lot of commercial feeds do little more than make your rats fat and unhealthy. To combat this, consider mixing your own feed for your rats. It's cheaper in the long run, and you can prepare your feed so that it's nutritionally appropriate for your rats. I prefer to use a variation of the Suebee Rat Diet. Experiment with this and see how it works out for your rats. This site also gives ideas for healthy treats.

Feeding straight lab blocks is another alternative, and far superior to any commercially available feed. The only potential snag here is getting them, they may or may not be available in your local pet store. If you cannot acquire quality lab blocks locally, do a Google search and find a mail order company that sells them.

Food should be available at all times for the rats to "graze" on as they see fit. Contrary to what some may believe, they will not scarf it all down at once. Rats typically eat what they need at any given time, and save the rest for later. In the case of lab blocks, you may notice that your rats bury or hide them. This behavior is completely normal.

Health
Rats, like any other pet, can be subjected to an array of health issues, some of which are serious, some of which are easily dealt with. There are entirely too many issues to cover here, so I'm going to focus on the 2 issues that come up most frequently-- mycoplasma and tumors.

Mycoplasma is a respiratory bacteria that virtually all domesticated rats have. Some strains are stronger than others, and it can wreak havoc on your rat's respiratory system and eventually destroy the lungs. Rats with weakened respiratory systems due to mycoplasma are more susceptible to other illnesses, such as pneumonia. However, just because your rat is more than likely carrying around this bacteria(if you got it in a pet store, you can be assured it is), this does not mean your rat will be unhealthy or experience respiratory illnesses. Maintaining a clean environment for your pet is the single best thing you can do to prevent illness derived from mycoplasma. This also goes back to what I mentioned about never keeping rats in fish tanks or aquariums-- ammonia can build up inside containers such as these and stress a rat's respiratory system, which can then allow mycoplasma to go wild, triggering illness. This is why it's important to house your rats in wire cages that allow air to flow.

Mammary tumors are unfortunately common in older females(generally those 18 months of age or older), and can occasionally occur in males as well. In fact, the most dramatic tumor of any rat I've ever had occurred in one of my males. His tumor developed on his belly and initially resembled an abscess as it grew to about marble size. But treatment didn't help and within about 2 weeks it had grown to the size of a golf ball. I took him to the vet, got the diagnosis, and scheduled him for surgery. Even though he was a bit older at the time(about 2), he was in otherwise good health and came out of surgery just fine, and recovered rapidly. A tumor is not necessarily a death sentence, and tumors in rats are more often than not benign, however if allowed to grow large enough, they can impede the rat's mobility and other functions, and begin to create secondary problems. Some tumors may not be visible immediately, so it's a good idea to frequently feel your rat around her belly and sides and note any bumps or lumps you come across. Tumors can develop rapidly or quite slowly, there's really no way to tell which it might do. Not all tumors will require surgical intervention. If you find a tumor on your rat, consult your vet as soon as possible.

Let's run through a quick Q&A to cover a few more pieces of information.

Aren't rats really dirty and stinky?
This is a common misconception. Rats are, in fact, as meticulous as cats when it comes to personal grooming and have virtually no odor. A rat that fails to keep itself clean or has an unpleasant odor is very likely ill and should be seen by a vet. Male rats may occasionally have a very slight odor to them, caused by a waxy build-up they may develop from time to time on their backs, something that's often referred to as "buck grease". This scent is generally only noticeable if you've got the rat right up near your nose and isn't at all unpleasant.

Can't you catch the Plague from rats?
In short, no, unless your rat happens to have fleas. It is the fleas carried on feral rats, not the rats themselves, that were(and still are to a small extent) responsible for the spread of the Black Plague. Rats who carried fleas also ultimately died from this disease. Approximately 600 cases a year of the Plague are still reported today, and of those almost none of them result in death thanks to modern medicine.

Rats have really big teeth, do they bite?
Generally speaking, domesticated rats are highly disinclined to bite unless they're feeling especially frightened, threatened, or defensive. Of all the rats I've handled or had contact with in my lifetime(hundreds), I've been bitten exactly twice-- once by a very ill female who was in a terrible state of confusion, and once by one of my males who mistook my finger for food.

This is a good time to mention that rats do indeed have relatively large and extremely sharp teeth, with the teeth of the lower jaw being longer than those in the top. A rat can inflict a swift, powerful bite that can be quite painful, and as rat bites are often deep, will usually bleed for quite some time. Use caution when handling known aggressive animals, animals that are sick or injured, or animals that are displaying signs of fear, as these are times when bites are more likely to occur. The other mistake new keepers tend to make is putting their fingers through the bars of the cage to touch the rats. Many rats will see this as an invitation to check your finger out more closely, usually by latching on with their teeth to pull it further in to the cage for examination. Rats have extremely poor eyesight and may not be able to distinguish your finger from a piece of food, so never, ever put your finger through the cage bars. Open the cage door and allow the rat to come to you, and present him with your knuckles or the back of your hand first so he knows it's not an offering of goodies.

If you are bitten, seek medical attention.

Can I catch any other diseases from rats?
Generally speaking, no. However, there is a condition similar to "cat scratch fever", usually referred to as "rat bite fever", wherein a bite can become infected, and as rat bites are typically quite deep, can cause significant problems. If you are bitten and the bite becomes infected, seek medical attention immediately. This is a fairly rare event, but not out of the realm of possibility. For the record, neither of the bites I received resulted in anything more than a few days of discomfort.

There is also a condition known as "orf" that is typically associated with sheep farmers. It's a viral disease that can cause oozing, painful sores on infected areas(usually the hands). While this condition is extremely rare when dealing with rats, I've actually had it. I don't know which rat I contracted it from or how, since at the time I had several that were handled daily. I even managed to completely stump my doctor at first, because this disease is almost exclusively associated with sheep. I developed a half dollar sized patch on my hand that burned, bled, and oozed for about a month, and took about another month to clear up completely(and as an added bonus, it left a big scar). It's difficult to treat, ugly, and generally irritating, but it otherwise will not hurt you. Also, the likelihood you'll ever actually contract this disease from your rats is slim to none. I guess I must just be really special.

Aren't rats aggressive? The ones I see in dark city alleys sure are!
As a whole, no. Domesticated rats have been purposely bred over time to be friendly and even-tempered. Feral rats are a bit of a different story, however, even these rats will flee as a first resort and display aggression as a last. In pet rats, aggressive individuals do exist(I've owned a few) but they are very much the exception. A sure sign that a rat is becoming agitated is a rapid flipping, thumping, or flicking of the tip of the tail, much the same way a cat will display irritation. They will often simultaneously try to "flatten" themselves, lay back their ears, and cock their heads sideways in warning. If your rat displays these behaviors, stop whatever it is you're doing and back off. Your rat is telling you he's not happy with the situation and is beginning to feel defensive, which could lead to you getting bitten. If you must handle a rat who is displaying defensive warnings or signs of aggression, carefully and securely wrap him in a towel(don't crush him or restrict his ability to breathe!).

Right, the tail. What's up with that?
For some reason, this is the number one reason people give me for disliking rats-- their tails. I don't even pretend to understand it... most animals have tails! The rat is no different, except that his tail is not fully covered in hair like many other animals, leaving the skin visible. The skin of the tail appears somewhat scaly, and in fact it actually is-- rubs a rat's tail backward, from tip toward the body, and it will feel quite bizarre. But, it's a just a tail. It can't hurt you. And it frequently serves as a fifth limb to aid a rat in balance or to secure themselves(hold a rat and he may wrap his tail around your hand or wrist) or to aid in climbing down from things. A rat's tail is a useful thing indeed, but if you're really that squeamish, there exists such a thing as a manx rat-- that's right, a tailless variety, just like the cat of the same name.

While I'm on the subject of tails, let me state this as well: never pick a rat up by his tail. This is extremely dangerous to your rat, as it can cause spinal injury or degloving of the tail itself. Don't know what that means? Google it and be horrified. A rat's tail is not a handle; pick your rat up safely and securely by putting one hand under his belly and the other under his rear end. If it is an absolute emergency and you have no other option than to grab a rat by the tail, grab as close to the body as possible, preferably right at the base above his rump, and move him quickly and gently. There are very few circumstances where this will ever be necessary, so I'll simply say: don't pick up a rat by the tail.

My rat has crusty red stuff around his nose, did he have a nosebleed??
No. Rats secrete a natural substance called porphyrin that is quite similar in appearance to blood. These secretions occur around the nostrils and the eyes and are sometimes an indication of respiratory issues. If your rat is constantly secreting porphyrin, he is either ill or is living in an environment that is irritating his respiratory tract(which can eventually lead to illness if not remedied). Occasional secretions are normal and not something to be concerned about(but feel free to wipe off his little sniffer if it really bothers you).

Is there anything else I need to know?
Yes, lots. However, I've covered the basics here and at least a portion of your knowledge will come from actually owning pet rats. There are also multiple high quality resources available on the internet that you can use to gain further information.